A Booming Weekend in Genova

The children’s drawings and “thought clouds” on the piano mobile (first floor) at the imposing Palazzo Tursi said it all:Kids thoughts about Genova, Palazzo Tursi “I recommend a trip to Genova because there is the sea, the aquarium, the port… famous traditional foods such as pesto, pansoti (little bellies of stuffed pasta), ravioli, farinata (a flat chickpea pancake) and focaccia alla genovese, said one while others mentioned La Lanterna (lighthouse) which dominates the port, the fabulous palazzi which line via Garibaldi; and one even gave a recipe for the famous Ligurian basil pesto. Curiously none mentioned fish though there was a drawing of two small fish and also of a jellyfish. Perhaps it was the teacher’s oversight, or maybe because for many children, seafood is an acquired taste.
The Cook by Joachim Beuckelaer (c. 1533 – c. 1573/4)  Flemish painter specialising in market and kitchen scenes - this painting is part of "La Cucina Italiana" exhibition at Palazzzo Bianco, Genova

The Cook by Joachim Beuckelaer (c. 1533 – c. 1573/4) Flemish painter specialising in market and kitchen scenes – this painting is part of “La Cucina Italiana” exhibition at Palazzzo Bianco, Genova

This weekend in Genova there were plenty of adults with children in tow milling around the old port for Slow Fish, a four day event which showcases a range of seafood products protected by Slow Food Presidia and asks a number of pressing questions: What state are our seas in? What fish species are on the verge of extinction? Can we influence the market? Should we stop eating fish? Is there a future for small-scale fishermen? What’s allowable or even safe to eat? Why are young people no longer choosing fishing as a profession? “Young people are choosing almost any profession instead of fishing,” said Jeremy Percy from Low Impact Fishers of Europe (LIFE), a platform representing small-scale fishers.
Jeremy Percy (far left) speaking at one the Slow Fish events on Saturday

Jeremy Percy (far left) speaking at Slow Fish event on European Fisheries Policy on Saturday

“In the UK we’ve seen two major drops in the number of young people taking up fishing: the first was when the economy was strong and construction work offered a more stable occupation for better money. The second has been the recent increase in costs of quotas and fuel for fishing vessels, which has made it more attractive for owners to employ foreign crews than local young people. “Fishers are the last hunters; there is an element of this in any fisher,” said Percy. “It’s a spiritual occupation, it’s as primal as you can get. It’s one of the last escapist jobs: When you throw off the ropes and go to sea; it’s just you and the sea. There’s no other job like it in the world.” There were plenty of colourful sights around the port, including quite a few from Africa, which helped offset the earnest tone of the event.
Lbeigue, Bolly Ba and Sidi Ely from Mauritania with their Bottarga

Lbeigue, Bolly Ba and Sidi Ely from Mauritania with their Bottarga

But it wasn’t just the old port that was pumping this weekend. Over 11,000 people turned out to celebrate, La Notte dei Musei (Museum Night), an idea which originated with the Ministry for French Culture ten years ago, and which this year embraced the whole city. Numerous museums staged theatrical performances, guided tours of the medieval city, installations, choreographic and musical entertainment, lectures and workshops for children which related to collections by themes, topics and historical periods. I stumbled across the event in via Garibaldi where I ‘d gone to look through some of the UNESCO heritage listed palazzi (grand houses) built by the aristocrats of Genova in the Renaissance style using local grey stone, white marble from the Arpuano Alps and pinks stone from Finale. Many boast frescos or decorative stucco work on their facades , balconies, courtyards and terraces overlooking gardens with states and fountains while inside they reveal monumental staircases and painted decorations. A true testament to Genova’s once great maritime power.
Accademia degli Imperfetti musicians at Palazzo Rosso

Accademia degli Imperfetti musicians at Palazzo Rosso

I was enchanted by the performance of the Accademia degli Imperfetti musicians at Palazzo Rosso, so-called because they get together to play for the love of it while holding down other jobs. And I was spellbound by La Danza delle Sedie at Palazzo Tursi in which children from 4 years up participated in a dance around quirky chairs.
La Danza delle Sedie (Dance of the Seats) at Palazzo Tursi (scull Danza Zara, Genova)

La Danza delle Sedie (Dance of the Seats) at Palazzo Tursi (Scuola Danza Zara, Genova)

Something else the children missed referring to was the old medieval city down near the old port.  I managed to lose myself a number of times in the warren of narrow laneways lined with shops which wind around apartments and churches. It’s here you really get a sense of Genoa as an old port town, seething with life.  Take a walk around early evening and not only will the street musicians be out, so too will the prostitutes. Perhaps that’s why this vital part of Genoa wasn’t included in the children’s “thought clouds”?
Musicians in the medieval town of Genova

Musicians in the medieval town of Genova