All fired up at The Woods

It’s been a while since I’ve been to Sydney’s Four Seasons hotel in The Rocks.  Last time, it was for a traditional afternoon tea in the rather out-dated Cafe at the back of The Lobby. But nothing could have prepared me for the transformation that’s taken place since award-winning designer, Michael McCann, was commissioned to do a makeover. I could hardly believe my eyes when I visited last week – it felt as though I’d been plucked out of the 1980s and hurtled into the 21st century. The Woods, the stylish new restaurant where the Cafe used to be, is contemporary yet rustic in appearance. It revolves around wood-fired cooking with a centrally located wood-fired oven and open-plan kitchen complete with wood-fired grill. It’s here that newly appointed Executive Chef Hamish Ingham is set to light your fire, using naturally flavoured Australian varietal woods in the oven to enhance signature grilled dishes such as his delicious olive wood-roasted Milly Hill lamb saddle with celtuce and sorrel.

Olive wood roasted Milly Hill lamb saddle with celtuce and sorrel

“The Woods’ ever-changing menu is driven by a focus on the very best Australian produce, grown locally for us with an emphasis on its inherit perfect nature”, says Hamish. “Australian wood varieties will be used to achieve the very best flavour profile for the dish being created”. The night I was there, mallee, olive and apple woods were being burnt to cook tasty, unusual dishes such as the salad of cucumbers with grilled sea urchin & yoghurt; and luscious crisp skin wild fish fillet, with giant snow peas and wood-grilled peppers.

Crisp skin wild fish fillet with giant snow peas and wood-grilled peppers

Apart from the theatre of chefs busy at work in the open plan kitchen, there are plenty of other whimsical features to catch your eye.  A creative live vertical herb wall forms the backdrop to the chef’s table; while recipes are scrawled on the ceiling. Off to the side is a semi-private dining room with its own separate entry path, ideal for larger bookings and functions. The 30-something Hamish Ingham will have his work cut out for him. Not only will he be in charge of The Woods, he’s also responsible for the food menus at the swish new bar, Grain, and for the hotel’s in-room dining menus. As if that’s  not enough of a challenge, he’ll continue to run Bar H in Surry Hills for which he won his first Chef’s Hat accolade in the  2013 Good Food Guide. His wife, Rebecca Lines, will be consulting restaurant manager for The Woods. Together, they’re all fired-up for their first foray into luxury hotel dining. Please note: I was a guest at The Woods, Four Seasons Hotel, Sydney