Spetses Island, old port

These daunting creatures had already been bashed on the rocks and rubbed with sea salt and vinegar before being hung out in the intense heat, a time-honoured way of preserving octopus in Greece.
The reason I hadn’t seen them was due to being parched and tired after bicycling around the dazzlingly beautiful island all morning. Spetses is one of the best kept secrets in the Aegean and belongs to the Saronikos group of islands south of Athens (it lies just south of Hydra which is more rugged and also much more tourist-oriented).
Like all Greek islands, the daily diet – like the lives of the people themselves – revolves around the sea. Seafood dominates most restaurant menus.  At the Giorgos Taverna on the old harbour, most of the fish is charged per kilo weight and includes red mullet (barbounia), swordfish, tuna and others, the names of which I didn’t recognise.  I did try one -  a seasonal fish called ‘mayiatiko’ (or May fish)  – which reminded me of swordfish and was very good char-grilled. Lobster, calamari and prawns were also plentiful as was fresh large octopus stewed in red wine. You can dine here on a wooden platform which stretches out over the water. In typical Greek fashion, the tables are covered in blue and white check cloths with a matching awning, the chairs are wooden, the cooking is simple and the house wine is cheap.
Fishing boats putter out past the brilliant white lighthouse opposite and further out at sea you can spot long flat ships and – in summer – swanky gin-palaces.
Many of the hills on Spetses are covered with pine trees, a rare sight in the Aegean. Others are studded with ancient silvery olive trees. An old olive press, owned by the Niarchos shipping family, still functions during the olive harvest .  Wild herbs grow all over the hills and at the very top of one of the highest hills is a monastery where the nuns make yoghurt and sell fresh milk and eggs. Prolific lemon and orange trees grow in the gardens around the white-washed houses in town and in summer terracotta pots of basil (both small and large leaf) can be seen on every doorstep and windowsill.
All these foods are essential in Greek cuisine and, along with whole grain breads and fresh vegetables, form the basis of the Mediterranean diet. I would venture that the  simple island lifestyle also contributes to the well-being of these people – and you’d be foolish to overlook the spiritual effect of such an environment. For as John Fowles wrote many years ago in “The Magus” about Spetses:
“(It) was beautiful.  There was no other adjective; it was not just pretty, picturesque, charming – it was simply and effortlessly beautiful. It took my breath away when I saw it, floating under Venus like a majestic black whale in an amethyst evening sea, and it still takes my breath away when I shut my eyes now and remember it.”

Try this simple octopus dish which is part of the ‘meze’ at C’Aphrodite in Cremorne, Sydney: wash and clean a large octopus (make sure you remove the beak).  Put it in a pot with a tight-fitting lid and steam over medium heat for about one hour (use a simmer pad to prevent sticking)– or until a small knife pierces easily through the largest tentacle. Remove the octopus from the pot and when cool, cut it into bite-size pieces and place in a sterile jar.  Strain the juices from the pot.  Return them to a pan along with an equal amount of red wine vinegar, a few slices of lemon, a couple of bay leaves and a few peeled garlic cloves. Bring to the boil, remove from heat, cool and pour over the octopus. Store in the refrigerator and serve as part of a ‘meze’ – or just on its own with a glass of ‘ouzo’!

Preheat oven to 200deg/180degC Fan Forced.  Spray 24 x 1/2 cup muffin tins with cooking oil spray.
In a bowl, combine the zucchini, cheese and flour and combine well.  Make a hole in the centre and add the oil, milk, eggs, green onions and dill. With a wooden spoon, mix to combine, being careful not to overmix the batter.  Don’t worry if it’s a bit lumpy. Spoon into prepared muffin tins, filling about 3/4 full.  Bake 30 minutes or until golden brown.  Makes approximately 24.

Pots of basil for sale at the weekly Organic Market in Perugia, Italy

Often there was a pasta dish and always a plate of ripe sliced tomatoes, dressed with excellent olive oil and fresh sweet basil leaves from the garden.
The pungency of that herb lived in me so strongly that to this day I can’t go through a summer without at least two basil bushes somewhere in my garden.  Fresh basil continues to evoke summer days, fragrant red tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, clear blue skies, terracotta pots and geraniums.
Despite my associations, the many different varieties of basil (’Ocimum’ species) are native to India.  This surprised me at first, because basil is not used much in Indian cooking.  Apparently it was sacred to Vishnu and Shiva and a pot grew in every courtyard. As it spread to the Mediterranean, the legends grew and changed.  In Italy, it was customary for a pot of basil to be placed in the window by a lady as a signal to her lover that she was expecting him.  In the famous poem “Isabella” by Keats, Isabella kept the head of her lover in a pot of basil.  In Greek the work “basileus” means “king” and some call it the king of herbs, a claim I wouldn’ dispute.
The most common basil is the sweet basil with its large dark green leaves and strong sweetish aroma. This is one used in the fabulously pungent Genovese pesto and in Italian cookery. There, they claim to have the best tasting basil in the world, something to do with the soil or water.  Originally made in a mortar and pestle where the ingredients are pounded together, pesto is easily made these days in a food processor, though some purists claim the blades bruise the leaves, thereby altering the flavour.
Other varieties include purple basil, the leaves of which are so striking that they are often grown solely for their ornamental qualities. There are two varieties of this – opal and purple ruffles.  Their leaves add colour contrast to a salad and make an unusual pesto.
Then there’s the fabulous lettuce-leaf basil with its large wide leaves, which are good for wrapping up fish or chicken or stuffing with other vegetables.  Its flavour is less pronounced than the more common sweet or bush basils.
Scented basils, with flavours reminiscent of other plants, are another group.  These include the cinnamon basil, lemon basil and licorice or anise basil (very similar to Thai basil).  The latter is often used in Asian cooking, lending a sweet fennel-like flavour.
Lemon basil makes an interesting addition to stir-fry vegetables and cinnamon basil lends fragrance to custards, jellies, marinades and fruit salads. There’s also a lime basil which grows more vigorously than the lemon and has a stronger flavour and darker leaf.
There are also basils not suited for culinary pruproses but used as insect repellents; and there is the holy basil, used for religious ceremonies in India, its deep pungent fragrance creating an atmosphere of reverence.  Greek basil (which is a round ball of tiny leaves) is ornamental but some chefs do use it.
Basil grows best in hot weather, requires a moderately fertile soil.  If the soil is too rich, however, you will have lush growth at the expense of the aromatic oils. Good drainage is important and basil likes to dry out between waterings.  It doesn’t mind being potted, though the small bush basils are the most suitable for potting.

Melt the butter and sweat the onion and potato for 3 – 4 minutes over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Add the stock, bring to the boil and simmer 15 – 20 minutes or until potatoes are soft.
Remove from heat and pour into a blender.  Liquidise the soup base, adding the green leaves and herbs halfway through – this ensures a vibrant colour.  Season to taste.  Serve hot or cold garnished with basil or watercress.

Tip: when sweating vegetables, make sure to add a pinch of salt (to release the juices) and to cover them with a lid.  Add  1/2 cup milk or cream for a creamier soup, if liked.

Cut  the duck meat in very thin strips (julienne)  with skin intact and set aside. Julienne the carrot and cucumber (1 cupful each), the radish (½ cupful) and the whole unpeeled nashi. Set each aside. Make up the dressing. Using a small pot, bring the vinegar and sugar to the boil.  Simmer until sugar has dissolved. Set aside with the remaining garnish ingredients.Put sesame seeds into a small pan and on low heat stir slowly until roasted golden.  Remove and set aside with the remaining garnish ingredients.

Assemble the Salad

Place the julienned duck, salad vegetables and the nashi in a mixing bowl. Add the dressing, tossing ingredients to combine well. Transfer to a serving plate.  Spoon 2-3 tablespoons of the duck juice over the salad. Add the garnish, sprinkling the top of the salad with the roasted sesame seeds and serve.

Selection of Alice Cho's Chinese Teas

Sydneysiders are truly spoilt for choice:  you can find lip-smacking spring onion or pork pancakes at Mother Chu’s Taiwanese (at $2.50 – $3 a pop); sweet boat noodle soup thickened with chicken blood at Chat Thai; garlicky Russian salad and Uygur-style BBQ lamb skewers at Kiroran; and deep-fried lamb cutlets topped with roasted garlic, chillies, black beans and shallots at East Ocean. There’s plenty of theatre too: watch hand-pulled noodles from Xinjiang being made at the Chinese Noodle Restaurant, sweet conical ‘roti tisu’ being shaped at Mamak and tiny warm cream puffs being moulded and filled at Emperors Garden Bakery – one of Sydney’s best bargains at 4 for $1.
After all, this is the largest Chinatown in Australia and the largest Chinese New year celebrations outside of Asia are held here each February. For decades, most of the Chinese restaurants specialised in Cantonese cuisine.  But changes are afoot.  At East Ocean, the menu has recently been overhauled to include dishes from other areas including Shanghai, Sichuan and Beijing.   Make sure you try the lamb cutlets, a clever take on the popular salt-and-pepper combo (you can order lobster, mud crab and king crab in this style). I also recommend the wasabi prawns, an inspired dish of plump, crispy deep-fried prawns, coated with vivid green wasabi mayonnaise flecked with black sesame seeds.  If you can’t make it for dinner, go for Yum Cha, available 365 days a year, and along with Marigold and Regal, one of Chinatown’s best.At the impressive new ‘Red Chilli’ restaurant opposite the Entertainment Centre, spicy Sichuan cuisine is all the go.  As we are ushered in, I notice a number of diners ordering the same dish: a large, beautifully engraved bowl which, we’re told, is called ‘Chef’s special hot fish fillets’. The idea is to scoop the fish out from the bowl of sizzling oil which is infused with scores of chillies and Sichuan peppercorns. Its multi-layered flavour is sensational, and the hot numbing impact of the peppercorns makes my lips tingle (make sure not to miss the luscious pieces of Chinese cabbage buried deep at the bottom).
It reminded me of the ‘piece de resistance’ at Neil Perry’s new ‘Spice Temple’, currently the hottest place in the Sydney CBD, where it is charmingly called ‘fish drowned in heaven facing chillies and Sichuan peppercorns’. It’s another multi-layered flavour hit. Perry describes ‘Spice Temple’ as a modern Chinese restaurant which pays homage to and draws inspiration from the provinces of Sichuan, Yunnan, Hunan, Jiangxi, Guangxi and Xinjiang, and you’ll find more hot and numbing dishes on the menu, the hottest of which are in red letters.
While food may be the major attraction of Chinatown, this area is also well known for its markets. Paddy’s Markets is one of the biggest, selling everything from vegetables to clothing. Don’t leave without visiting the hole-in-the-wall adjacent to Emperors Garden Bakery in Dixon Street.  People queue here for the cream puffs and I know why: tiny and delectable, they are filled with hot custard while you watch, and are heaven-sent. Take them with you over to the tranquil Chinese Garden of Friendship by which time they will have cooled enough for you to eat without burning your tongue.

Delicate lacy pancakes, Langkawi food markets

A long queue had formed and people were having trouble deciding just which filling to choose. Mango perhaps or maybe strawberry or apple or banana or Nutella ?  How about a little alcohol (Bailey’s, Cointreau)?  Or what about trying a sweet Thai lotus nutpaste with water chestnuts?
Savoury crepes included chicken and avocado, ham and cheese, Fetta with tomato salsa and vegetarian chilli con carne.
The sweet crepe batter was the usual mix of flour, sugar, eggs and milk.  The savoury crepes were made with wholemeal flour and no sugar. There was also a wheaten-free batter and a dairy-free batter.
This colourful lively market offers an eclectic variety of cuisines and has become a meeting place for locals since it started in 1987.  Chairs and tables are set on the grass under the palm trees and people wine and dine on food from the various stalls as a big red sun sets into the Arafura sea.
Ken’s crepes are based on a traditional French crepe mixture. If making them at home, you will need to tilt and rotate a lightly greased small flat pan so that the batter covers the bottom and remains very thin. Served with lemon juice and sugar, they make a marvellous light dessert.  Or you could do the very traditional thing and make crepes suzette by serving them with a rich buttery sauce flavoured with lemon, orange, Cognac and Grand Marnier.
Thicker American-style pancakes are easier to make – though not as delicate – and you can’t fold them over.  You can, however, add a variety of ingredients to the batter and serve them stacked and served with fruit on the side, or with melted butter and maple syrup drizzled over the top.
In Asia,  pancakes are made from a variety of grains and beans.  The fabulous Southern Indian ‘dosas’ for example are made with lentil and rice flour.  No leavening agents, white flour or eggs are added but the mixture must ferment overnight.  Crisp and golden on the outside and softish within, they are traditionally filled with a mixture of spicy potatoes (’masala dosa’) and onions and served with coconut or coriander chutney.
Batters made out of bean flour or soaked beans are also popular.  These can be seasoned just with salt. Sometimes freshly grated ginger, coriander and green chillies is added to give a tastier batter. ‘Mung dal dhoklas’, made from a batter of soaked mung bean dal, yoghurt, lemon juice, ginger and chillies are served with tea or lassi as a snack topped with popped mustard and sesame seeds and freshly chopped coriander and grated coconut.
In Sri Lanka, hoppers are very popular.  Made with leavened white flour and rice flour, they are cooked, covered, in a wok and end up looking a bit like crumpets. You can eat them with butter and jam – or a fiery sambal. Now there’s a way to start the day!

Basic Pancakes: for twelve basic American-style pancakes, sift together 185g (1 1/2 cups) plain flour, 1 1/2 tsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp salt and 3 tbsp caster sugar into the food processor bowl.  Process to combine then add 2 beaten eggs, 3 tbsp melted butter and 250ml – 300ml milk. Process quickly until the mixture forms a batter. That’s all there is to it. It’s a good idea to let the batter rest for an hour or two, covered. Alternatively, beat the mixture by hand, pouring the wet ingredients over the dry ingredients – don’t worry about the lumps. If the batter thickens while standing, add a little more milk.  Pour it from a spoon onto a lightly greased hot pan, allowing about 4tbsp batter per pancake. Use the spoon to make even rounds.  Think of the first one as an experiment – wait until bubbles form on top, about 2 – 3 minutes, then flip over – the second side will need half the amount of time as the first and won’t brown quite as evenly. Serve at once or keep warm in a teatowel, folding ends over to cover.

Put the buttermilk, eggs and oil into the bowl of a food processor or blender.  Process until well combined.
Sift together the dry ingredients onto a piece of greaseproof paper and add to the buttermilk mixture.  Process 1 – 2 minutes or until well combined.  Scrap down the sides with a spatula and process for a few seconds.  Pour into a jug.
Lightly grease a small non-stick pan and place over moderate heat until hot.  Pour in a little of the batter, smoothing out with the back of a spoon.  Make the cakes about 12cm in diameter.  Cook until small bubbles form on top, flip over and cook until golden on the other side.
Serve in a stack of 2 – 3 pancakes topped with a knob of butter and drizzled with honey or maple syrup for breakfast or brunch.  Or mixed berries, dusted with icing sugar and vanilla yogurt.

Chocolate fondue at Chocolate @ No 5 Hahndorf Adelaide Hills

Potent, irresistible and ever so smooth.  You might think I’m talking about one of the world’s legendary womanisers, and why not?  Indeed, the 18th century Casanova had a penchant for chocolate.  Apparently he consumed gallons of the liquid stuff  and is alleged to have served it in much the same way that today’s playboys hand around the champagne.
I can’t speak for wannabe 21st century Casanovas like Leonardo di Caprio and his entourage, but there is scientific evidence that one of the substances in chocolate is P.E.A (phenyl ethylamine), a chemical that our bodies release when we feel a powerful attraction.  No wonder many people say chocolate makes them feel better, giving them a much needed pickup especially when blood sugar levels are low. Some claim they’d even die for it.
Enhanced amounts of PEA have been found in lovers, though sadly, as time goes by these levels decline. Give him/her a box of chocolates or a piece of rich chocolate cake, I’d advise.
Or try bathing in Hot Choc Bath Salts.  Together. Or painting it on each other’s body using a jar of Chocolate Body Paint.  Or spraying each other with Chocolate Kiss Spray (scented with cinnamon and nutmeg). For a dare, play a game of Strip Chocolate (which includes Chocolate Body Frosting, dice and “Dare” cards) and tempt more than just your taste buds! You’ll find all these products on the web.
Chocolate is in fact one of the richest sources of food energy, 100g having 2206kJ (525 Cals), so rather than spoil a hard work-out at the gym, I’d go for the bathing trick if you find you really can’t resist it.
That’s the problem with chocolate. It’s addictive. It’s  seductive. It’s not something you  flirt with or just like; it’s something you have an affair with.
This is because, apart from P.E.A., chocolate also contains theobromine, a  nitrogenous substance similar to caffeine which has a stimulating effect on the nervous system.  Both substances give you a sense of well-being.
he better the quality of chocolate, the more euphoric you’ll feel (well, that’s my theory). But no matter what chocolate you choose, remember you’ll be following in the footsteps of Casanova!

Chocolate Fondue

Soooo luscious. This recipe was given to me by Jeff Turnbull, chef at Aqua Dining, which sits stop North Sydney Pool and looks out over the Sydney Harbour Bridge. You can substitute a good quality dark chocolate for the white chocolate, if you like.

500g white chocolate, chopped
100ml fresh (pouring) cream
Finely grated zest of 2 oranges
15g unsalted butter
125ml Cointreau

Place cream in a saucepan and bring to simmering point.  Add the zest, chocolate and butter.
Whisk until smooth and then add the Cointreau.
Taste to make sure there is enough Cointreau. If too thick, add more cream.
Serve with sliced kiwi fruit cubes threaded on wooden skewers – or use whole strawberries, bananas or pear cubes.

Lightly spray inside of moulds with oil.  Press plastic wrap into moulds to sit evenly.  Drape two slices of salmon over each mould so that they slightly overlap each other. Press into the sides to give a good shape.  Refrigerate until the mousse is ready.
In a small bowl, dissolve gelatine in water and whisk until dissolved (if you set it over a bowl of hot water, it dissolves more quickly).
Place dissolved gelatine and salmon in the food processor, and process until smooth.  Spoon into a mixing bowl.  Add brandy, salt, pepper and dill.  Stir well to combine. Fold through the creme fraiche and egg white.
Spoon into prepared moulds and fold the smoked salmon pieces over to make a neat package. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a couple of hours. Just before serving, whisk together the dressing ingredients.  Turn each heart out onto a plate, remove plastic wrap and spoon over the dressing.

Photo by Andy Payne, Photographix