Organic guru, Samantha Gowing, has just taken a batch of kale crisps out of the dehydrator when I arrive. They’ve been in there eight hours and were rubbed with cashew cheese to tenderise the leaves beforehand. “We offer them to guests as a positive choice away from potato crisps,” she says. “They’re rich in antioxidants, calcium and magnesium.” Gowing is head chef at the newly opened Cabarita Ocean Retreat, northern NSW. “The kale (or cavolo nero) is supplied by John Cutts at Duranbah who also supplies our organic fruit and vegies.” Gowing serves the crisps alongside a platter of three-seed Italian crackers topped with cashew cheese. “The philosophy I created for the retreat is based on the principles of seasonal, slow, local, organic and wholefoods. “We use as much local produce as possible and run at about 70% organic. “This is a place of intense transformational healing and people come here to repair their digestive systems and to get well.” Gowing trained at Endeavour College, Melbourne, in Health Science, majoring in nutrition, and has just started a Masters of Gastronomic Tourism degree through Southern Cross University. Hospitality is in her blood – her father owned Gowings restaurants in Melbourne during the 1970s and 1980s.  At 19, she ran a Japanese restaurant in Toorak and during the 1990s she was publican at the Grace Darling Hotel in Collingwood. “After being blessed with a solid ground in fine food from the age of six in family restaurants, I then honed my skills to provide specialised culinary and marketing solutions to the spa & wellness industry,” she says. Gowing says people are becoming much more interested in the provenance and synergy of food. While she respects the work of high-end chefs such as Heston Blumenthal, she believes it’s more important to look at the origin of our food and how it resonates in the body. As an example she cites companion planting: “Plants which grow together go well together in the body.” Local suppliers include butcher Jack Sprat in Tweed Heads (“his organic grass-fed sirloin is sensational”); Wholly Smoked at Byron Bay (organic Birkdale chicken); Byron Bay Seafood Market (“Freckle gets the pick of the bunch”) and Goanna Bakery in Lismore for gluten-free breads. Gowing’s passion is apparent in the daily menu at Cabarita, aptly named surf spa food. A typical day’s menu might include seasonal fruit and housemade spelt wrap filled with cured salmon with herbed omelette and avocado for breakfast; Tweed Heads prawn platter with nam jim and tatsoi leaves and quinoa tabbloueh with parsley and mint for lunch; and fillet of grilled teriyaki Tasmanian salmon accompanied by ‘oshinko’ of arame, shiitake and pickled ginger served with steamed red rice and Japanese slaw for dinner. “Food is medicine” says Gowing. “It’s a vital force and healer.” Note: The cashew cheese recipe can be found in Russel James Raw Nut Cheese e-book. The kale chips were made using a few spoonfuls of cashew cheese and a tablespoon or two of lemon juice (or just cashews soaked, water, lemon juice and salt) and a tad of olive oil, massaged into young Tuscan kale (cavolo nero), stems removed. Dehydrate at 43 degrees for about 8 hours until crisp, or dried in oven on lowest setting for 10-12 hours. [puregallery]