If you had to choose one city to experience what Europe has to offer in terms of architecture, history and grandeur, then Prague – in the geographical heart of Europe –  would have to be one. Situated on the swiftly flowing Vltava River, it’s a fairytale mix of Gothic cathedrals, medieval spires (many of which remind me of black witches hats), graceful bridges, picturesque town squares and baroque opulence. Sitting at a cafe or bar by the banks of the river and looking up to St Vitus Cathedral and Prague Castle while evening settles over the 600 year-old Charles Bridge is a sight you won’t quickly forget. Prague is also a city of music.  Classical music concerts featuring various works by Mozart, Dvorak, Smetana, Bach, Albinoni and Vivaldi are held every night in churches throughout the city.  Most Czechs lost their religious faith during the Comunist era, and this is an inspired way in which to use and appreciate these sacred spaces (and their organs).  We were fortunate to to visit in September when the Prague International Music celebrating the music of Czech composer, Antonin Dvorak, was on. I’m not so sure I’d rave about the local “cuisine”, which mostly consists of heavy stews such as goulash with bread dumplings or pork with beer, roast pork knee, Moravian sparrow (pieces of pork meat), wiener schnitzel (made with pork), and roast duck Bohemian-style served with cabbage potatoes. Walking around the busy tourist areas of Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square, I came across some appealing street food being served from quaint wooden street stalls which lured me with delicious smells. I couldn’t resist trying the Trdelnik.   Similar to a doughnut, these are made with yeasted dough, which you can watch being rolled out into long narrow cylinders. They’re then wrapped around wooden poles which revolve over hot charcoal beads. When golden, they’re removed and rolled in sugar and crushed walnuts, cut into pieces of about 3 – 4 rings and served in a paper napkin. Very delicious, cheap – and high in Kjs, as is most traditional Czech (or should I say Bohemian) food! I was also intrigued by the huge spit-roasted hams which are sliced off the bone, and served with potato salad and cabbage.  Be careful when ordering these: the stated quantity is 150g, but they usually give you 400g – 500g, making it far more expensive than you bargain for. I also saw thin rounds of potatoes on rotating skewers being crisped over hot coals.  You’ll also find plenty of hot sausages for sale – which, along with the cheap beer will keep the male members of the family happy. Beer in the Czech Republic is cheaper bottled water! For lighter, more contemporary fare, I really enjoyed the salads and light meals (tandoori kebabs, chicken skewers, rare roast beef) at Bakehouse near the Jewish quarter.  The breads are exceptional and it’s a great place for either lunch or take-away for supper, if you’re staying in an apartment. Also recommended is Cafe Savoy, an elegant turn-of-of-last-century cafe and restaurant near Kampa Park where you can sip on coffee, wine or champagne, depending on the time of day and treat yourself to one of their fabulous patisseries (apple cheesecake, pear & poppy seed cheescake, Sacher torte and apple strudel to name just a few). They also serve lunch and dinner (both traditional Czech and international dishes) and have a good wine list. Fully restored in 2005, the setting and service are reminiscent of the First Republic, when Prague boasted one of the highest standards of living in Europe – and there’s even a non-smoking area. A wedding reception was taking place in the upstairs section on the afternoon we visited which added to the celebratory atmosphere. Opposite Cafe Savoy is the Olympia gastro-pub, a contrasting experience and very good for hearty fare. The menu is surprisingly wide-reaching, service is good and the atmosphere lively.  Both these are in Mala Strana on Vitezna, in the cobblestone street sector of town that includes the Prague Castle. Also just a few steps away from the US Embassy is the Aria Hotel, and its Coda restaurant is a wonderful upscale dining room that really pampers guests. But the highlights for me were a couple of places owned and operated by Italian chef Riccardo Lucque – Aromi on Manesova Street, an elegant tree-lined Parisian-style street in Vinohrady, ten minutes from Wenceslas Square: it’s the best fish in town, the staff speak good English and the wine list, albeit mostly Italian, is extensive. On the other side of the street is one of his terrific Enotecas, Bottega (Manesova, 83). Riccardo also has a steak restaurant in Old Town, called La Finestra, and next door (Platnerska, 11) is a wonderful shop and café, La Bottega, great for breakfast or lunch with pastas, salumi, sweets, wines. Nothing, however, can beat being in Prague on a crisp clear night and walking across the Charles Bridge: on the evening of the final Dvorak concert, a half moon hung in the air; the cathedral, castle and all the church spires were spotlit and I really did feel I was in a magical kingdom.