I Left My Heart In…

I Left My Heart In… How well I remember the first time I travelled along the Amalfi Coast.  I was in my late teens and could barely bring myself to look out the window of the car, not just because of the vertiginous hairpin bends and risk-taking cars and buses,...

The Pioneering Organic Farmer of Fossano

The Pioneering Organic Farmer of Fossano Meet Andrea Giaccardi of l’ Orto del Pian Bosco, a 40-something organic farmer in Fossano (CN) in the northern Italian region of Piedmont. Andrea is a pioneer in these parts. Not just because the median age of farmers in...

The Madcap Cheese Man of Bra

When Fiorenzo Giolito’s grandmother, Mariet Almonte, first started selling local cheese in the 1920s she would transport them 60 Km from Bra by horse to Turin. It was she who introduced the Genovese to Bra Duro, a hard  cheese which travels well and doesn’t...

On Peeling Artichokes (& Potatoes) in Saluzzo

On Peeling Artichokes (& Potatoes) in Saluzzo I’m standing in the spotless kitchen of Piero Boaglio, chef at the San Giovanni Hotel De Charme in Saluzzo, a picture-book medieval town in northern Italy and seat of an ancient courtly Marquisate founded in 1142. I’d...

La Prima Settimana (First Week)

La Prima Settimana (First Week) It’s been unseasonably warm and sunny this past week, interspersed by a few days of rain. Only a few weeks ago, it was snowing in Bra, something the locals tell me is not uncommon at this time of the year. Suddenly the paddocks we pass...

My Master’s Degree in Italian “Documenti”

My Master’s Degree in Italian “Documenti” “Sei quasi Italiana,” (“you’re almost Italian”) Giovanni declared when I told him that the office at the Comune was closed. He rolled his eyes, shrugged and smiled, sensing my frustration with the amount of...